Model #10658966700 KENMORE ELITE Side-by-Side Refrigerator

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  • Refrigerator Liner Parts
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  • Refrigerator Shelf Parts
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  • Freezer Liner Parts
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  • Motor And Ice Container Parts
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  • Refrigerator Door Parts
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  • Freezer Door Parts
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  • Dispenser Front Parts
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  • Air Flow Parts
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  • Control Parts
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  • Unit Parts
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  • Icemaker Parts, Optional Parts (not Included)
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Question and Answers

Q:

How do I get my icemaker to work? There is no ice/water in the system anywhere.

A:

I see you are having problems with your Ice Maker not working properly, I can see how frustrating it may be. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question. I found the Manual for your Ice Maker. I attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
October 20, 2010
A:

Thank you for the attachment; however, that item did not help me; I have the user manual which you attached. That's what I used to do my earlier diagnostics. I am looking for the links to the actual repair manual and schematic websites which I can use to get additional diagnostic information and do some electrical troubleshooting. I would like to verify power is at the valve, I would like to see if a power bypass jumper actually activates the valve (that is, apply power direct to the valve). If it doesn't activate, the valve is dead and would need to be replaced. My suspicion is either the water in the line at the entry valve has frozen or the water inlet valve has failed. I'm not sure how I would check the water flow at the valve itself without making a mess.

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Space Station -
October 20, 2010
A:

I will provide you with detailed technical information and troubleshooting to help you diagnose and repair this problem. First, I recommend verifying that you have proper water flow through the water dispenser in the freezer door. If water flow is weak, I recommend that you pull the water filter out and see if the water pressure and flow through the door dispenser improves. The housing for the filter has an automatic bypass so that water will flow properly with the filter removed.

If water flow significantly increases with the filter pulled out, I recommend that you leave it out and see if the ice maker will begin producing ice within a few hours. You will need to replace the water filter if this tip helps. This basic troubleshooting should not be overlooked. You may have already checked this issue.

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the diagnostic test system on the level sensing control boards on the side walls of the freezer. The first image below shows how to check the diagnostics on the control boards. If the red LED light flashes twice and the pauses and repeats when you open the door then it is likely working okay. Press in the flapper on the left side so that the beam is unblocked. The red LED should turn solid. If it does then the control boards should be okay. If the control boards are apparently bad, then they will need to be replaced. Unplug the refrigerator to disconnect power before accessing internal components. The second image shows how to replace these control boards. You can order a kit that has both boards from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the kit is 4389102.

If the level sensing control boards are okay, I recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and pull the ice maker module out. The third image shows how to remove the ice maker module. Carefully remove it and check the water fill tube protruding down from the roof of the freezer to see if it is frozen. If it is, then defrosting this line may fix your ice maker problem.

If the water fill tube is not frozen, I recommend that you replace the ice maker and manually fill the ice mold with water using a turkey baster or squirt bottle. See if the ice maker will cycle and eject the ice. Also check to see if the ice maker fills back up with water if it does eject the ice. If the ice maker module will not eject the ice then the module (part 2198597) will need to be replaced.

If the ice maker ejects the frozen cubes but does not refill, then you will need to conduct an advanced technical test to check the water valve. You will need a small piece of insulated wire such as door bell wire to create a "jumper" as shown in the 4th image below. To provide power to the ice maker module to conduct this test, you will need to follow these steps:

  • Unplug the refrigerator and pull out the receiver control board as shown in that 4th image.

  • Carefully place the stripped ends of the jumper wire into the wire harness locations between the yellow wire and the black/white wire in the receiver board harness that is on the side wall of the freezer. This will provide power to the ice maker module when the door switch is in the "open" position. This voltage path is drawn on the partial wiring diagram shown in the 5th image.

Remove the ice maker module as shown in the second image (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). Pull the cover off of the ice maker module to access the test points as shown in the 6th image below. You will need a separate large jumper wire with the ends stripped far enough to reach the contacts inside the test points of the ice maker. Fourteen gauge wire is recommended for this jumper. Place the jumper wire between the L and V terminals to test the water valve (with the refrigerator still _unplugged). Make sure that the wire harness to the ice maker module is plugged in properly. Position the ice maker module to the side (out of the way) and place a cup or container under the fill tube to catch water during this test. Push in on the door switch to simulate the freezer door being closed. Have someone plug in the refrigerator while you hold the door switch in. Once the refrigerator is plugged in, briefly let go of the door switch to see if water flows from the inlet water tube. Unplug the refrigerator as soon as this brief test is completed. If water did flow during this test then the water valve is okay. The ice maker module will need to be replaced since it did not energize the water valve during the harvest cycle.

If the water did not flow during this test then you will need to check the resistance through the circuit. The 7th image below shows how to check resistance through the water valve. You should measure about 300 ohms of resistance through the test points V and N (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). If not, then I recommend that you check the resistance of the ice maker water valve solenoid directly at the valve. The water valve is on the back, bottom portion of the refrigerator behind the service panel. If the valve is bad, it will need to be replaced.

These are complicated technical checks. Be sure that you follow the directions carefully. If you are not completely confident that you can safely diagnose this fairly complicated system, I recommend that you have a service technician repair this failure. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

I hope that this is the technical information that you were expecting. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and we will help you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2011
A:

Here are more images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

This is the final image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

Lyle, thanks for the great info. I would like to list the steps i have taken and hopefully you can direct me on what to do next. i installed a new ice maker module 2198597, still no ice. Then I went onto this website for help. The red led blinking light acted correctly with your checks. I remover the receiver control board and jumped the blk/whi wire with the yellow and the icemaker started moving. It seemed to go through all the cycles but still no ice. With the wires still jumped, I added water to the ice tray with a cup and got ice in my hopper a little while later. When I did the 14guage jumper test on the side of the ice maker I couldn�t get anything to happen (this may have been my fault, im not sure what state the door sw was in during this). Finally I unplugged power and did the resistance tests. I got L&H heater test 73.5 ohms, L&M motor test 5.12 ohms, V&N water valve 1.6 ohms. What�s next? Thanks for your help

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joey -
August 03, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Your description points to a failure in that water valve or a frozen fill tube. Check that fill tube to see if it is frozen (or clogged). The resistance reading through that water valve circuit from the ice maker module should be around 300 ohms. I recommend that you recheck that resistance reading. You can unplug the refrigerator and carefully place that insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver board as described above. Place a 14 gauge insulated jumper wire in the L and V test points on that ice maker module. Make sure that the stripped ends of that 14 gauge jumper wire are long enough so that you are hitting those contacts in side the ice maker module test point holes. Place a cup or container under the fill tube and then push in the freezer door switch and see if you get any water from the fill tube above the ice maker. If the fill tube is clear and you get no water through the fill valve during this test, then the inlet water valve will need to be replaced. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

NOTE: You will need to plug the refrigerator back in after placing the jumper wires in the receiver board harness and ice maker module in the above procedure. I left that step out in the above response.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

hey Lyle, i finally got back to the issue. im not really sure how to check for a frozen tube. i took a wire hanger and sent it into the fill hose hole trying to feel ice and it felt clear. the water in the door works fine. as far as the resistance im still getting 1.8 ohms. i know im hitting the contacts because of how my meter reacts, it shows OL untill it touches the terminals. i followed the steps for the fill tube test and got nothing. could it be my inlet water valve? is this a common failure? how is it replaced? thanks for your help.

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joey -
August 13, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Based on your description and the resistance reading on fill valve circuit, you will need to replace that inlet water valve assembly. That is not a common failure but it does occur occasionally. You can order that part from Sears PartsDirect.com (see link below). UNPLUG the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. You can follow the basic steps that are shown in the images below to replace that water valve assembly.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 16, 2011
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Q:

Kenmore Trio running too cold & freezing food!

A:

Managemylife.com is always a great resource to find the answers to just about anything. Your expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner.

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Alina F. -
December 27, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question. I understand your concern about food freezing. This will depend on the location in the fridge, the food is freezing. These are good temperatures for the fridge section. If the food that is freezing is next to the air vent or maybe in the pantry, this could be normal. Adjusting the controls will usually correct this. Adjust the fridge control to a slightly warmer setting. Also check the freezer temperature. If it gets too cold (below zero degrees), it can contribute to this problem. If it is too cold, adjust the freezer temperature slightly warmer. To check the temperature, place a thermometer between some packages. Air temp is not a good check. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
December 29, 2011
A:

TY Scott for this info but I am really tired of throwing away produce and fruit and having all of my beverages frozen. This has been a problem with this fridge since purchase and noone has been able to repair it (have had it serviced several times for this issue) or advise me. Food freezes in the veggie keeper, in the fruit keeper, in the pantry, on the top shelf particularly right side. Should I raise the temp in both the freezer and the fridge? And if so to what? They are now set at 40 (but currently reading 37) and freezer is at 1.

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Pamela Frank-Hall -
May 03, 2012
A:

Pamela, I'm sorry you are having this problem. Actually, the temperatures listed for the fridge section are very good. Food should not be freezing at these temps. The food that is freezing in the lower section of the fridge may be from some air that could be leaking back up through the return air vents. If this model has 2 return vents, one of them may be restricted. Pull both crispers out and check for a vent in the back corners of both sides. If it does have vents on both sides make sure nothing is on top blocking one of them and check to see if one of them may be frozen. If one of the vents is restricted, it can cause a problem with the air flow and create this type of freezing problem. One other possibility could be if the control damper # W10196393 is not closing properly and allowing too much air flow. When this occurs, the control damper will need to be replaced. If these checks are ok, this could be a complicated check because the temperatures listed are very good. In this case, I would recommend having a technician check it because this will probably be something that will need to be seen, to determine what is taking place. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
May 04, 2012
A:

TY Scott for your assistance. My husband did all the things you have suggested but it has not made any significant difference. He did ask me to tell you that we do not have the ice maker hooked up and he wondered if this might have any impact on this problem? I am hesitant to call for another service call as I have had several for this same problem starting shortly after I bought the unit, all of which did not correct this problem. And of course now I have to pay for them as the unit is no longer under warantee.

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Pamela Frank-Hall -
May 09, 2012
A:

Pamela, I understand your frustration but this is a complicated problem, especially because the temps listed are very good. If the control damper listed above has been replaced, the only other components that regulate the temperature are the control board and sensor. A technician would be required to check the sensor. However, at the temperatures listed this check will probably be ok. This is very unusual because according to the temperatures, this refrigerator is working very good. This may be happening if the food is placed directly in the air flow. A technician will probably need to actually see this to try and determine what is taking place.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
May 10, 2012
A:

I have the same problem as Pamela. Kenmore Trio model #795.78753.802, s/n 811KR01762. I have performed all checks with no relief. In addition raising the temperature on the control pad for the refridgerator section seems to have no response. it is currently set to 46 degrees. Interior temp at mid height of box is 29 - 32 degrees. All crisper drawers freeze food. I'm not a fan of calling techs. I am a licensed aircraft tech, fully capable of "parts changing" on an appliance. all I ask is an educated opinion as to the problem. Thanks.

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Tom -
September 24, 2012
A:

Tom, in this model it's possible air can be leaking around the bottom of the air tower and cause this problem. To stop the air leak, lift the air tower and run a bead of RTV sealant along the bottom and then place the air tower back down on top of it. I'm attaching a picture with instructions of how to remove the air tower. Be sure to disconnect the power first. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
September 25, 2012
A:

My Kenmore Elite 10658966700 is freezing all the food and beverages on my fridge side and we have adjusted the temperatures higher, but it's not correcting the problem. Should we replace the thermostat or could it be something else?

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Anonymous -
November 03, 2015
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Q:

Ice Maker Problem 106.58966700

A:

Thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com and being a valued member.  I can certainly understand how frustrating it can be when your icemaker is not working properly.  

 
1. Check the temperature of the freezer becasue if it is fewer than 17 degrees F it wont make ice. 
2.Check if your water fill spout is plugged with ice, if it is then it wont make ice.
3. Check to see if water is getting to the water inlet valve. 
4.Use an OHM meter to check the continuity of the water inlet valve. If it does not have any continuity then you need to replace your water valve. If it does then the icemaker itself is the problem and may need to be replaced.

I have attached the information to lower the water flow and to test the icemaker. 

You can also visit searpartsdirect.com for parts, diagrams, and repair information.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Thank you for your question. Have a great day.

SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the appliance before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact your local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
July 30, 2015
A:
Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
July 30, 2015
A:

Natasha. The ice maker is making ice OK it just won't dispense. I was wondering if it is possible that the seal on the unit is faulty and allowing warm air to enter the bin and melt some of the ice. The icemaker itself is working correctly. I have a lot of ice, I just can't get at it without opening the door.

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Alicia -
August 04, 2015
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