Model #10656549400 KENMORE Side-by-Side Refrigerator

  • Cabinet Parts
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  • Refrigerator Liner Parts
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  • Refrigerator Shelf Parts
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  • Freezer Liner Parts
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  • Motor And Ice Container Parts
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Door Parts
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  • Freezer Door Parts
    3 Results
  • Dispenser Front Parts
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  • Air Flow Parts
    3 Results
  • Control Parts
    3 Results
  • Unit Parts
    3 Results
  • Icemaker Parts, Optional Parts (not Included)
    3 Results
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Troubleshooting

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Question and Answers

Q:

INSIDE FREEZER RED LITE IS FLASHING. UN SURE WHY. 10656549400 Kenmore Refrigerator, sxs

A:

Hello glad to help.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com
 
I am sorry and do understand your frustration when there is trouble with the refrigerator.
 
Glad to help out.   Im  looking at your Kenmore model number 106.56549400.

Im sorry to say but that red light could be the fault of a few items like the icemaker itself can fail, the water valve may not open, the optic boards failing, The freezer temperature not cold enough.    I would get a service man to come out and look so you won't have to hunt or guess anymore.

Our Sears service tech phone number is 1-800-469-4663.

Hello glad to help.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com
 
I am sorry and do understand your frustration when
 
Glad to help out.   Im  looking at your model number 
 
 

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
January 14, 2014
Q:

Leaking water dispenser

A:

Having your water dispenser begin to leak can be very frustrating. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. At this time, I was unable to locate information that would be helpful in regards to your question. Some of these questions that are asked will need specific research and will be answered by an expert with-in two business days but usually sooner.

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Julio -
July 30, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question. I can understand your concern about the dispenser dripping. If this is a slow drip, normally replacing the water tube inside the door, to the dispenser, with an updated tube # 820157 will correct this problem. The new tube has a bladder to help prevent this type of leak. This is the most common type of leak.  

If the leak is a steady continuous drip, the water valve # W10408179 will then need to be replaced. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
August 01, 2013
A:

Thank You Scott Sometimes its a slow drip and sometimes its a continuous drip that then stops. Should I try the tube first and then the water valve or just do both.? Thank You again! Your assistance is truly appreciated.

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jon -
August 01, 2013
A:

Scot checked with parts and they can't locate part #820157. Our model # is 106.56549400 and our serial # is SR3938325

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jon -
August 01, 2013
A:

Jon, I'm very sorry about the part number, I left a number out. The full part number is 8201537. Based on this latest information, I would recommend replacing the tube first.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
August 01, 2013
A:

Thank you for that info Scott. It is very helpful. One thing that I did not mention in my previous comments was that my ice cube maker was not working as well. Would the water valve replacement be the "usual suspect" for this. Should I replace this as well in addition to the tube anyway? Thank you again

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jon -
August 01, 2013
A:

Jon, if there is no water flow to the icemaker, the problem could be with the water valve or the icemaker. A good check for this will be to pull the unit away from the wall and disconnect the power. Now, remove the back panel cover and you will be able to see the water valve. Disconnect and reverse the wire connections on the solenoids and reconnect the power. Now, activate the dispenser and if water flows to the icemaker, it indicates the icemaker # 2198597 has failed and will need to be replaced. If no water flows, the water valve # 4389177 will need to be replaced. If this is the case, I would recommend replacing the valve first before the fill tube. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
August 02, 2013
A:

Scott, Just replaced water valve. Dripping problem seems to have improved. Still no water to theice maker. 1)Checked water pressure at house and it is 86. Would that contribute to the drip problem? Would lowering it possibly reduce dripping? (Trying to avoid putting in part # 8201537. Watched video. Seems like a pain!) 2) Would replacing icemaker get the water to come to it? Confused on that! Thank You again Jon

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jon -
August 02, 2013
A:

Jon, the water pressure to the fridge should be 30 to 40 psi. If the pressure is 86 psi to the fridge, then yes, it could be causing the dripping problem. If there is still no water getting to the icemaker, follow the procedure listed above to reverse the connections on the valve. If there is still no water flow, the valve will need to be replaced but if water does flow, the icemaker will need to be replaced. If you would like to have a technician check this, you can call 1-800-469-4663 to schedule a tech to come out. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
August 05, 2013
A:

Scott, When I replaced the valve I did not realize there was a right (or different) way to connect the wires. How does one know the proper relationship between the wires that are put into the valve. Is there a picture someplace?

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jon -
August 05, 2013
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Q:

How do I determine the "start-up" wattage/amperage of my frig?

A:

I found some information for you that I am hoping will be able to help you until your expert answers your question. I am adding the link below to help you with your question while you wait for your expert response. I do hope that this will help you out.

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Marc -
August 20, 2012
A:

I know that it can be very helpful to have the right information for your refrigerator. The starting amperage for this model is 11 amps. This will only last for a millisecond, then it will use the running amps of 6.5. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
August 20, 2012
A:

Thank you for the info. To convert this to wattage I multiply 11 amps by 110 volts to get 1,210 starting wattage...correct?

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Tom -
August 21, 2012
A:

Tom - Not quite but close enough.

The volts multiplied by amps = watts only works for DC current. For AC devices you have to include the power factor.

In the link Marc referenced above Jimmy quotes using 3 times the running wattage as a rule of thumb for a starting wattage. I feel that is a little high, as rule of thumb we used to use 2 times.

The information given with most generators does give a 'starting load' and a 'steady load' wattage or something worded similarly. 'Surge' is also sometimes used instead of 'starting'.

Whilst what Anne has said above about it only lasting a millisecond, this is not always the case, the starting load only starts to decrease once the armature or rotor starts to move and the motor then acts as a generator trying to push back into the line. Until the armature starts to move the current draw is essentially a 'short circuit'.

Hope this helps.

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biguggy -
August 21, 2012
A:

I have 106.55509400 that also shows 6.5 amps on the inside. How do you find the starting amperage for this model? Above you say 110V x 11a is close but what is the power factor, and what is correct startup watts in that calculation? Alternatively, how do you know the running watts so you can multiply by two or three?

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Tex -
April 19, 2013
A:

...and followup question: does one need to add the running watts + startup watts to get a total wattage needed at any one time? Or is the startup watts the max instantaneous need?

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Tex -
April 19, 2013
A:

Tex - At the instant of start up the power factor will be 1.0, there being no reactive load. As the armature starts to rotate the reactive load will increase until normal full load speed is reached at which time I would expect the power factor to be in the region of about 0.8. For your refrigerator alone I would suggest allowing between 2,500 to 3,000 Watts, and if it was me I would go for the 3,000. You do not need to add starting watts to start up watts. The starting load is the maximum required. Hope this helps.

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biguggy -
April 19, 2013
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