Model #10652759100 KENMORE Side-by-Side Refrigerator

  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Liner
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Shelf
    3 Results
  • Freezer Liner
    3 Results
  • Motor And Ice Container
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Door
    3 Results
  • Freezer Door
    3 Results
  • Dispenser Front
    3 Results
  • Air Flow
    3 Results
  • Control
    3 Results
  • Unit
    3 Results
  • Icemaker
    3 Results
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Error Codes

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Question and Answers

Q:

Fridge 10652759100 has frequent ice/frost build up at bottom of ice maker and ice dispensing chute. 10652759100

A:

Thanks for contacting manage my life about your refrigerator model 10652759100, sorry you are having a problem, I will be glad to assist you. Based on the description of the frosting location the only thing that could cause this is the dispenser shoot door not closing properly. Although the door may appear to be closing well, it is possible that it does not seal that good all the time.  It is very common for a cube of ice to get wedged in the door, and as it melts away warm air is permitted into the freezer and will frost under the ice maker and at the shoot. This happens and cannot be prevented if you use the ice dispensing feature. Another cause of this door not sealing is from using crushed ice often, this crushed ice will stick to the door and shoot sides and eventually keep shoot door from closing properly.  You can clean the door and shoot with a cloth and warm water. You can also spray food grade oil (Pam) on the door and shoot area to prevent sticking and treat the door gasket for better sealing. If you feel you issue is more involved that I have explained, I would suggest a close inspection of the shoot door for a bad or torn gasket, or possible other defective components. I hope this helps, if you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services. Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
September 27, 2013
Q:

Is there a definitive way to test if the control panel on a refrigerator is not working?

A:

When you have a refrigerator issue you do want to get it repaired right away. I see you have entered a couple of posts now. Just to let you know, an expert will be answering your specific question. I know it sometimes takes 24-48 hours. Not always, so be patient. In the meantime, as someone who also likes to do things on my own, I found a sort of tutorial from another web site for refrigerator defrost issues. I attached it below if you care to check it out. Hope this helps!

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Barbara H. -
December 10, 2010
A:

Thanks Barbara

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Mauibob -
December 10, 2010
A:

Thank you for you question.

I am sorry you are having problems with your refrigerator. I will try to help you with the repair. I am sorry I am not sure what the ohm reading should be on the heater. I usually open the interface area and access the test plug. It should be a two wire plug that is not connected to anything. It should be a brown and a pink wire. Once the freezer is cooled down, unplug the refrigerator and ohm from pink to brown. If you get an open reading the bi-metal is defective. To check the heater unplug the P1 connector from the control board and ohm from the brown wire on the test plug to the white wire on the on the P1 connector. If you get a reading, the heater should be fine. Heaters show open when they fail. If the bi-metal and the heater check out ok you can follow the instructions in the image below to fore the refrigerator into a defrost cycle. Once in a defrost cycle you can carefully check the voltage between brown and white on the P1 connector. If you do not have 120 vac the board is defective. I hope this is helpful.

Here is a link to order any parts you need. Sears Parts Direct .

Please reply below if you need any further assistance. I will be happy the help.

Thank you for using Manage my life.

Mark T.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
December 12, 2010
A:

Hi Mark: Thank you for your help. Please refer to the photo I took to see what I did please. Step 1: Test bi-metal: I did a resistance test with my digital meter and got a reading of 200 ohms when I connected the brown and pink wire together. This is the same reading I get when I touch the leads to each other. I have to assume this is full continuity. My meter jumps to zero and them climbs back up to .2 or 200 ohms. I also disconnected the bi-metal last week, placed it in another freezer and got a rating of zero ... which slowly climbed to 200 ohms. Based on this information, I assume the bi-metal is OK. What do you think. Step 2: Check heater: I then connected my ohm meter to the brown wire on the test plug to the white wire on what I believed to be the P1 Connector. (Please look at the photo to insure that this is in fact the P1 connector) My ohm reading was about 24,000 which looks like it is in line with what it should be at a temperature of -2 degrees. Again, I have to assume that the heater is OK. Step 3: When I ran the diagnosis test, I got green lights for the first two tests and every thing else seemed OK. I did not however do a voltage test from the brown wire on the test plug and the white wire on the P1 plug. To start, I was not sure if I was actually using the P1 connector as show to the left in the photo I attached. Can you verify if that is correct. Also, how cold does the freezer need to be to insure that the bi-metal is connected? Do I need to jump the two wires that are attached to the bi-metal to do this test? Thanks for your help Mark. I could not do this without you. Aloha, Bob

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Mauibob -
December 14, 2010
A:

Thank you for your reply. The picture does not show the P1 connector. The P1 connector is located on the refrigerator control board under the plastic cover. the .2 reading on the bi-metal is a good reading and if the heater reads 24 ohms it is also good. You can place an insulated jumper wire into the test plug between brown and pink. Then enter a forced defrost. You should have a voltage reading of 120 volts ac from white and brown or white and pink. It does not matter once the test plug is jumped. If you have the voltage, the problem is either a heater or bi-metal. The bi-metal should be closed when it is 20 degrees. If you do not have the voltage when in a forced defrost, the board is defective.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
December 15, 2010
A:

Hi Mark: Thanks you very much. Based on your suggestion here's what I did. I took the plastic cover off of the top of the control panel and found the P1 connector. (see photo below) I then jumped the brown wire to the pink wire on the test plug as you suggested. (see second photo below) With the refrigerator plugged in, I tried to take a voltage reading between the white and brown wire on the P1 connector and again between the white and pink wire on the P1 connector. There was no voltage reading. Here's the problem however. When I tried to put the refrigerator in forced defrost mode ... which I thought I did before by using the control panel and going to step 6, the control panel was dead. I'm sure that was because I had the P1 connector disconnected. Did I have the defrost in forced mode when I placed the jumper between the brown and pink wire on the test plug? If so, what does that tell you? If not, what do I need to do to force the refrigerator into defrost mode? By the way, when I tested for voltage across the brown and pink wire, I got a zero rating. I did the same thing for resistance and got a zero too. Was this do the the fact that I had the P1 connector disconnected when I did the test? I really appreciate you staying with me on this Mark. Thank you

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Bob -
December 15, 2010
A:

I am sorry, the P1 connector has to be connected to put the refrigerator into defrost. You have to make the voltage readings from the backside of the connector when it is connected and the jumper in place. The jumper bypasses the bi-metal and sends the signal back to the defrost board. If the bi-metal is open or defective the board will not go into defrost.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
December 15, 2010
A:

Thanks Mark: Here's the situation now. I forced the refrigerator into defrost mode ... and I know it was working because I could see the ice melting in the freezer and hear the element heating up. I then jumped the brown and pink wires using the test connector and did a voltage check from the white wire to the pink wire where I got a voltage reading of 117. But when I tried to do a voltage reading from the white to the brown wire, I could not get a reading. I don't know if it's because I was not able to make a connection or if there was no voltage across the connection. Next I disconnected the jumper cable to see if it had any impact on either the voltage from the white and pink wire or the white and brown wire and it did not. It also did not effect the defrost. It looked to me like the defroster was still working without the jumper cable. What's next? And thanks again for being so patient with me. Aloha, Bob

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Mauibob -
December 15, 2010
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Q:

What is the resistance supposed to be on a Kenmore Refrigerator 106.52759100 heater/defrost coil number 2188175?

A:

It can be frustrating trying to repair an appliance. A refrigerator can be very tough to diagnose and resolve. You do have an expert who will respond to your question at managemylife.com. I did some research and found a similar question that may shed some light on the repair. I attached the link below.

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James -
December 10, 2010
A:

The defrost heater should measure between 21 to 27 ohms of resistance. I provided the diagnostic test mode for this model in the first image below. The second image shows the wiring schematic. This information should help you check the defrost system. Use the diagnostic test mode to see if the heater works. If the heater works, then you probably have a bad control board. If the heater does not work, I recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and check the resistance through the defrost heater circuit (pink to white wire on the P1 connector of the control board). If that circuit is "open" (measures Ol -- open load or infinite resistance) then you could have a wiring failure in the circuit if the bi-metal thermostat and heater tested okay.

These tips should help you with this failure. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 11, 2010
A:

Thank you for the fantastic answer. I'm going to follow your guidance right now. Thank you.

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Mauibob -
December 11, 2010
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