Model #10651552104 KENMORE Side-by-Side Refrigerator

  • Cabinet
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  • Refrigerator Liner
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Shelf
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  • Freezer Liner
    3 Results
  • Motor And Ice Container
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Door
    3 Results
  • Freezer Door
    3 Results
  • Dispenser Front
    3 Results
  • Air Flow
    3 Results
  • Control
    3 Results
  • Unit
    3 Results
  • Icemaker
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Freezer/Fridge either stays on or will not turn off, have to turn knob off and back on to work correctly. 10651552104 Kenmore Refrigerator

A:


Thanks for your question- we see that no one from the community responded.  If you still require assistance on this topic, please resubmit your question with any updated information and we will have one of our experts take a look.  Also, we have updated our site to include information regarding common repairs and diagnosis, which can be found here: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-help.html.  If you are looking for your owner’s manual, it can be found here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals.  Thanks for visiting SearsPartsDirect.com.

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
December 06, 2013
Q:

Why as my icemaker stopped making ice? Model #106.51552104

A:

The ice maker not working can be very frustrating. I did some research on your model number and found some information for you that I am hoping will be able to help you. Please click here: Ice Maker Not Working. Your expert will also help answer your question. It may take two business days for your expert to reply. I do hope that everything works out.

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Marc -
March 24, 2013
A:

It is concerning when the refrigerator is not functioning correctly. As far as the water valve substitute being used there is usually instructions as to how to hook the valve up. Looking at the model of refrigerator you provided, it has a icemaker and water dispenser. This would require the two solenoids, one for the icemaker and one for the water dispenser. The wiring harness should have 2 plugs for the dual water valve. If there is only one plug with two wires you could see which solenoid operates when the icemaker is calling for water and hook the icemaker hose to it. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
March 25, 2013
A:

To Anne, The replacement part I received does have two solenoids. However, the fittings to connect the lines to the solenoids are completely different. Do I need to purchase additional parts in order to connect the new solenoid?

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Kevin -
March 26, 2013
A:

Replacing some parts can be a little tricky sometimes. This is the new push/pull type fitting. I'm attaching a picture with instructions for this fitting. This appears to be a reducer fitting and should only connect one way, with the large tube on one end and the smaller tube on the other. The green solenoid is for the water dispenser and the red solenoid is for the icemaker. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thank you for usng Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
March 26, 2013
A:

Thanks for your help. I have replaced the valve/solenoid. However, the icemaker is still not making any ice. Any ideas on what I should do next?

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Kevin -
March 28, 2013
A:

I'm sending pictures with instructions to remove the icemaker. Please disconnect the refrigerator from the power. Pull the front cover off to access the module and you will see some test terminals (see picture). Once you have access this, use a well insulated jumper and place it between the L - V terminals. Reconnect power to the unit and with both jumpers in place, water should now flow to the icemaker (be prepared to catch water from the fill tube). If water does flow, the icemaker will need to be replaced. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
March 29, 2013
A:

Well I finally was been able to perform the tasks that you suggested. According the amp meter there is no electricity going to the icemaker. What do I do now? Is there a fuse?

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Kevin -
July 31, 2013
A:

There is no fuses in the ice maker. If you are not getting any voltage, then the ice maker is the problem. It is best to replace the complete assembly. Please let me know if there is anything else you need. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
August 02, 2013
A:

Kevin, you may want to go over to you tube there are some great videos on testing ice makers. if you have no power going to the ice maker a new ice maker will still not have any power going to it. did you unplug the ice maker and check the wiring harness plug to find out you had no power in the wiring harness for the ice maker. or did you check the control module for the no power issue. if the control module has no power then it could be the module but if the wiring harness plug has no power going to the control module then you need to find that issue first.

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TC -
August 02, 2013
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Q:

New icemaker motor not running

A:

Good morning JC... I can fully understand your concern regarding this issue of the motor still not coming on. I did locate a link that will discuss this situation in greater detail and offers a different perspective that you might not have considered yet. Keep in mind that an expert will be responding within the next two business days if not sooner and will likely offer you more information and instruction. I hope this link will help guide you as to what might wrong with your ice maker and have a nice day.

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Henry -
December 14, 2012
A:

You can test the motor of that ice maker but you will need to place an insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver control board to get power to that ice maker module. Here is a link for a previous answer that provides a procedure for placing a jumper wire in that harness: How do I get my icemaker to work? There is no ice/water in the system anywhere. . That previous answer mainly deals with water supply problems but he last engagement on page 4 discusses a motor problem. Once you unplug the refrigerator and have the small jumper wire in place on that receiver control board, you can pull the cover off of the ice maker and place a larger insulated jumper wire in the T and H test contacts for the ice maker module. If the motor is good, it should run when you plug the refrigerator back in and press in on the freezer door switch. Being an HVAC technician, I assume that you will be able to safely execute the testing described here and in that previous answer. This ice maker system is somewhat more complicated than most systems since it has a level detection system that used control boards. If the motor runs during the above test that the ice maker module motor is okay. You could have a problem with the emitter and receiver control boards if you are not getting any power to the ice maker when it needs to harvest the frozen ice.

If you need parts, you can order them from this page: Kenmore Refrigerator Model 106.51552104 Parts . Be sure that you unplug the refrigerator before accessing internal components and replacing parts.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 15, 2012
A:

Thanks a lot for your time Lyle, great info and diagrams. This is my issue. I checked power from L to N and had nothing. Checking incoming power I read 58 volts AC on one of my Fluke meters. I got out another Fluke and it read 100 VAC. Got out a cheap meter I have and it has 33 VAC. I took Motor module back out and read same volts at point module plugs in . Re-installed module again and now read same voltages at L and N points. Tested meters at wall socket and all three read 115 volts. Ghost in the machine I guess. I think power issue may be problem because jumpingT and H still does nothing. Any ideas? I will check again in the meantime and see if it starts on its own. Thanks again. JC

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John -
December 17, 2012
A:

Incoming power I checked was on icemaker wiring harness,freezer side.

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John -
December 17, 2012
A:

Hello John. Did you place that insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver control board before checking that voltage? That receiver control board will allow trace voltage through the circuit to the ice maker but it will not allow the proper current and voltage to be supplied to the ice maker all of the time. That is why that jumper wire is needed in that control board harness before testing the ice maker module motor. You will also need to press in on the door switch if you jump the yellow and black/white wires. If you jump the black to black/white wires using that wiring diagram as a guide, you will get constant L1 power to the ice maker module so you don't have to press in on the freezer door switch. Be sure that you UNPLUG the refrigerator when accessing internal components. Use proper electrical safety guidelines when testing live components with internal wiring exposed. Wear electrical safety gloves and safety goggles during that type of test. I hope that this additional information helps. Let us know if you need more assistance.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 17, 2012
A:

Sorry to be slow to reply. I did not have jumper on and is is getting correct power, problem is I think my problem was a faulty water valve and not the motor. Tech who I paid saw one side of the plastic clip that holds on to the gear was broken and he assumed that was my issue. More tests this week to determine if it is indeed valve. I can put water in and it spits out ice quickly but not refilling. Thanks for your help. JC

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John -
January 06, 2013
A:

Hello John. Since the ice maker spits out the ice after manually filling it, then the emitter and receiver control boards are okay. You seem to be correct that the valve could be bad. If you replaced that ice maker and it still won't fill, then you could have a bad valve or a problem with the wire harness connection between the ice maker module and the water valve. Let us know if you need more help with this failure.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 07, 2013
A:

Thanks Lyle,I will check harness before proceeding to valve.

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John -
January 07, 2013
A:

I added some technical information below that should help you check that harness and water valve circuit. The first image shows how to remove the cover from the front of the ice maker. The third image shows how to pull the ice maker out of the housing in the freezer. Be sure that the refrigerator is unplugged when handling internal components. The second image shows how to check the resistance through the water valve circuit using a volt/ohm meter. That information may help you check that circuit. If you need more assistance, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 08, 2013
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