Model #10650564990 KENMORE Side-by-Side Refrigerator

  • Cabinet
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  • Refrigerator Liner
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  • Refrigerator Shelf
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  • Freezer Liner
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  • Motor And Ice Container
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  • Refrigerator Door
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  • Freezer Door
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  • Dispenser Front
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  • Air Flow
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  • Controls
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  • Unit
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  • Icemaker
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Question and Answers

Q:

i have a kenmore model 106.50564990. It seems to be running constantly and has a slow leak.

A:

Leaks can sometimes be nasty and even dangerous. I have taken some time to further your search and noticed that someone else had asked a similar question with a posted response from an expert. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Alina F. -
October 15, 2010
A:

I read both of these and it may be that something is clogged. The repairman told us this. However this model is a side by side and your responses are a top mount and a bottom freezer, so we are at a loss as to what to do next. And would this problem make for a hot compressor? Thanks for all you do. muriel buckley

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madamebuck -
October 15, 2010
A:

I can understand your concern. Apparently it seems, you are referring to a slow water leak. If this is the case, it's possible that in the move, the drain pan may have been damaged or it may not be in the proper position now. It should be located on the left side as you face the unit, toward the rear of the cabinet.

This will not cause the compressor to get hot but it is normal for compressors to get hot. Unless it has stopped cooling, it should be ok. Now if it runs a lot, that's common also. However, it may be that it's just cooling it back down again or if it's in a warm ambient location now, it will run more. This is a very efficient unit and takes very little current. A good way to determine if it's cooling ok will be to, check the temperature in both sections. Place a thermometer between some packages in the freezer and the proper temp should be between 0 - 5 degrees. Air temperature is not a good check. To properly check the fridge section, place a thermometer in some liquid. This section should be from 36 - 40 degrees. If the temps are in these ranges, it's working ok. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, additional details will be helpful.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 15, 2010
A:

According to our repairman it should not get THAT hot. And would that account for running all the time? My husband says he thinks the leak is from condensation when the compressor stops running. the fridge is in a rental unit we have and we will be able to check the drain pans tomorrow. Might the compressor be clogged or even bad? And how would we check that? Any other thoughts? thank you muriel buckley

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madamebuck -
October 15, 2010
A:

sorry. did not realize you were still writing your last response.

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madamebuck -
October 15, 2010
A:

If the compressor is getting excessively hot, it will normally trip out on overload and this will cause it to stop cooling. A couple of good reasons the compressor can get excessively hot is, if the fan motor next to it quits or if the condenser coil gets excessively dirty (clogged). Again in either of these cases, the compressor will overheat and quit. There is another possibility and that would be a low freon charge. This can cause the compressor to get very hot and run all the time but in this case, it won't cool properly. If it's cooling ok, as stated previously, it should be ok. If it does not reach the temps listed, then I would suspect a possible low charge. A technician will be required to make this type of check. I'm listing a site below you can access to have a tech come out. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 15, 2010
A:

The drain pan seems to be ok. It cant be moved to catch this particular drip. The tube that comes out of the compressor gets all icy and when the compressor stops, it melts and drips - sometimes a bit, sometimes more. Cant fin the diagram to correctly talk about the tube. is there one online so i can identify it better? the one in the manual is too taken apart to correctly identify. The tube from the compressor is cold and icy and then a plastic sleeve is there whereupon the metal tube continues and it too gets cold and icy. The tube in front of that one is hot. Fridge seems to work ok temperature-wise. any ideas?

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madamebuck -
October 21, 2010
A:

The line that will be frosting is the suction line (heat exchanger). The most common reason for it to frost is when, the small tube that is attached to the big tube breaks loose. The big tube is the suction line and the small tube is the cap tube. Together it's called the heat exchanger. If the cap tube breaks loose, the suction line can frost. In this case, you can use some plastic ties to reattach the cap tube back on the suction line. A couple of more reasons the line will frost is, if the evaporator fan quits running or if there is a defrost problem. Since the unit is cooling ok, both of these conditions should be ok. Another reason the suction line can frost would be if there is a problem in the seal system. In this case, a technician will be required to check it. I'm listing a link you can check to have a tech come out. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 22, 2010
See more answers
Q:

Why won't water flow to this new icemaker in model #106.50564990 and serial #SK1327056?

A:

As stated previously, if the original icemaker was working, it was suggested to reinstall it and the original wire harness. The tube extension was to help stop the water that was leaking. If water does flow when the L-V terminals are jumped but you still don't get any ice, then the icemaker must not be cycling or the water valve is weak. By weak I mean it's not able to open at a lower voltage. When the icemaker cycles on it's own to fill, the voltage will be lowered to the water valve. This is because of the mold heater in the icemaker. By jumping the terminals, it's by-passing the mold heater and sending 120 volts directly to the valve. This situation can be checked, by jumping the T-H terminals on the icemaker. This will start the icemaker into a cycle and at the end of the cycle, it should fill. If it cycles but doesn't fill but does fill by jumping L-V, the water valve will need to be replaced. If it cycles and fills, it indicates the icemaker is not cycling on its own, which would be the problem. If this is the case and it's a new icemaker, then the problem could be with the optic boards or the temperature in the freezer is too high (above 10 degrees). To get an accurate temperature, place a thermometer between some packages, air temperature is not a good check. At this point, it may be best to have a technician check this. A technician will have the proper equipment to check the temperature and to make some voltage checks at the valve, the optic boards and at the icemaker.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 23, 2009
Q:

Why won't water flow to this new icemaker?

A:

For the problem you were originally experiencing, there is a fill tube extension # 2174755 to stop the dripping. To install this extension, slit the tube and slide it over the existing open fill tube. What can happen is, water will splash out of the open fill tube, on this icemaker. I suggest reinstalling the original icemaker and wire harness and getting this extension. It's available at Sears PartsDirect . If the problem still exists, I recommend having a technician check it.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
September 25, 2009

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